I just love it when a wine hits me in the face with a great big smack of quality, especially when I am not altogether expecting it. The Wine Society press tasting found me mouth agape, pointing with raised eye-brows to the Pouilly-Fumé I’d just tasted. Other tasters around me agreed. I had had my pen-poised to write something along the lines of ‘text-book Pouilly’, which in fact I could have done because this is indeed text book very good quality Pouilly-Fumé and not at a silly price either. But it’s a lot more than that. The Wine Society describes it as refined and it is. And exotic and zesty and long. Just lovely. Made by Château de Tracy, almost as a second wine, and with Denis Dubourdieu acting as consultant wine-maker, I find a synergy between my admiration and the wine. I used to sell Château de Tracy wines when I worked for their importer over 25 years ago and M. Dubourdieu is a specialist in one of my great loves, Bordeaux Blanc. Of course I’m going to love this wine. You will, too.
Sometimes it pays to go back to the traditional wines; they developed their reputation for a very good reason.